Leaving Key West, driving north on U.S. 1. I thought this stretch of road looked like something out of Miami Vice

Tuesday morning in Key West came too soon. The last day of vacation always does. After a final breakfast at Duval Inn, a taxi took us to the tiny Key West Airport to pick up the rental car. The taxi driver had a lot of suggestions about our drive north on U.S. 1. Chief among these was that we veer of the main highway on to Old Card Sound Road and have lunch at Alabama Jacks. Alabama Jacks was, he said, the best place to get fresh seafood and an atmosphere that was unique, even for the Florida Keys. Not being one to argue when good food and interesting people-watching are at stake, we opted to take the detour.

Upgrade!

But before getting to Alabama Jack’s, Key West had one last treat in store. The compact we had reserved was not available. Since we couldn’t get the car we had been promised, Budget upgraded us to a Mitsubishi Eclipse convertible! Drive over the sea on a sunny day with the top down and the music up? Yes please.

Alabama Jacks, as seen from Old Card Sound Road

I am grateful for our taxi driver. If he hadn’t suggested the little detour, we never would have found Alabama Jacks. It is located at 58000 Old Card Sound Road in Key Largo, just outside of Key Largo Hammock State Park. The restaurant is built over the water on a couple of large, floating barges. The dining area is completely bordered by water on one side. If you arrived by boat, you could actually dock alongside the restaurant. Like B.O.’s Fish Wagon, it’s mildly surprising that Alabama Jacks is standing and in one piece. It is exposed to wind and water, giving it a weathered character that can’t be duplicated. It is decorated with nautical paraphernalia and has an area for a live band to perform. The service is friendly, but slow. I found this to be the case almost everywhere I ate in the Keys. Honestly, it was a good reminder to me to slow down, relax and enjoy the good things in life.

The view from Alabama Jack's dining area

The menu at Alabama Jack’s is heavy on seafood, much of which has been battered and deep-fried. Their alcohol selection is limited to beer and wine. Before this trip, my dad told me to eat a conch fritter for him. Since Jack’s claims to have the best conch fritters in Key West, I decided this was the place to do it. I order the conch fritter platter while Jared ordered (I think) a fish sandwich and fries. The conch platter was served with a salad (iceburg lettuce with a tomato wedge and ranch dressing) and lightly-seasoned fries.

Conch fritter, on a styrofoam plate with plastic utensils. I absolutely love how laid back Keys restaurants are

Having never eaten a conch fritter (at least, not that I could recall), I had no idea what to expect. I had thought that, being shellfish, it would have a fishy flavor and a chewy texture. I think I had fried calamari in mind, actually. This was nothing like I had expected. For one thing, the conch meat was sweet. And it wasn’t much chewier than any other fish I have eaten. I really enjoyed it. The batter was light and not greasy in the slightest. For condiment options, I was given ketchup, tartar sauce and lime wedges. While the conch was good on its own, it was even better with a little Tabasco sauce and a generous amount of fresh Key Lime juice. My only complaint was that it was so big I couldn’t finish it all.

After lunch, we split a slice of Key Lime Pie, relaxed and chatted before resuming our journey back to Ohio

Waiting for the plane. Call me crazy. But I absolutely love airports.

Shortly after lunch, we arrived at Miami airport, much earlier than we needed to be there. Not being able to resist a bookstore, I purchased a newer Tim Dorsey novel to read while waiting for the plane. For those that don’t know, Tim Dorsey writes satirical novels revolving around a Florida history buff/serial killer named Serge A. Storms and his pothead sidekicks. Dorsey’s zany novels have quickly become a vacation reading staple for me; and I’d highly recommend them to anyone who loves Florida and silliness. This book was especially nice to read after finishing The Devil’s Highway by Luis Alberto Urrea. (A quick aside, because it’s my blog and I can veer off-topic if I want to: Urrea is quickly becoming one of my favorite authors with his poignant fiction and nonfiction tales of life in Mexico and on the Mexican-American border. I love all of his work. The Devil’s Highway, the true story of 26 Mexican men trying to cross into the United States through the deserts of Arizona, is compelling but not exactly light reading. If you are going to read him, I suggest starting with The Hummingbird’s Daughter, a novel about Teresita, the Saint of Cabora and Mexican Medicine Woman).  With a new book and my husband by my side, I ended my Key West vacation reading, people-watching and daydreaming about future travels to faraway places.

The sunset at Miami Airport. Not nearly as impressive as the sunset over the water. But still gorgeous in its own way.

The whole time I was in Key West, I had been craving Mexican food. Who am I kidding? I’m nearly always craving Mexican food. While I knew I wouldn’t find the most authentic fare in that part of Florida, I still wanted to try at least one Mexican place. After watching the sunset, we walked back to Duval Street for a Mexican dinner and a low-key evening. Having lived in Mexico for two summers, I am picky about Mexican food. So I approached Salsa Loca expecting Tex-Mex fare rather than authenticity. If you are a fan of real Mexican food, I recommend that you do the same.

Salsa Loca offers a laid-back atmosphere with mediocre food and service

As far as Key West restaurants go, Salsa Loca is large, rambling and a little chaotic. The entrance to the indoor dining room is at 623 Duval Street. Around the corner, there is a separate entrance to the outdoor dining area. Given the choice, I’ll always sit outside. So that’s where we headed. It is casual, a mix of bar-height tables, picnic tables and patio furniture. Dogs are welcome; and I wouldn’t be surprised to learn that shoes are optional. A couple seated near us actually brought their dog with them. The waitress gave the dog its own bowl of water, which it lapped up happily before dozing while its owners enjoyed their dinner.

Salsa Loca’s menu is similar to that of most other Tex-Mex places. The sinchronizadaa, which is described as a tortilla sandwich, is the most popular menu item. I ordered that while Jared had a combination meal. Both meals were served with yellow rice and refried pinto beans. His chile relleno was acceptable, if a little light on batter and cheese. It, and the burrito were covered in a red sauce that tasted like it had come from a can. The rice and beans were just average. My sinchronizada was a little bland, but still pretty good considering my low expectations. It was filled with a generous amount of lightly-seasoned shredded chicken, cheese, onion and jalapenos and topped with sliced avocado. Everything was improved once it had been covered with some hot salsa. Overall, Salsa Loca was no better or worse than I had expected. However, I don’t understand why it got such rave reviews from our B&B owners as well as a few other people that we spoke to.

Chicken sinchronizada, margarita & combination dinner

After dinner, we returned to the Duval Inn for a nighttime swim before talking one last walk down Duval Street. It’s rare to find a place that keeps it pool open 24 hours. The Duval Inn does; and we had it to ourselves. I guess no one else was crazy enough to swim in the cooler weather. But I’ve always been a fan of nighttime swims, warm or not. When it got too chilly, we went back to Duval Street for a walk and a nightcap.

Palm leaves & the moon made for a beautiful nighttime swim

Several locals told me that, since Key West is so small, there aren’t a whole lot of “local joints”. Locals go to many of the same places as tourists. They just do it on different nights. This was evident as I walked down Duval Street on Monday night. It really struck me as Jared and I sat at a quiet bar talking with a stranger and watching the Winter Olympics. Spending more than just a weekend in Key West gives you a great feel for the island. I got to see the loud and crazy Saturday night and the low-key Monday night. It gave me a little bit of a feel of both the tourist and the local side of Key West.

Even Irish Kevin's Bar, which is notorious for its debauchery and crowds, is quiet on a Monday night

A sign welcomes you to Mallory Square's shopping area

A fire juggler at the Sunset Celebration

If you attend the Sunset Celebration, I recommend arriving early. Being there an hour before sunset is not unheard of, especially if you want a front-row seat. There is plenty to see and do before and after the sun sets. I saw vendors, a fire juggler, a comedian, a bagpiper with a mohawk and several other entertainers. If you haven’t had your fill of silly souvenir shops, there are tons of them in Mallory Square’s shopping area. And I definitely recommend going to El Meson de Pepe, a Cuban themed restaurant/bar/gift shop located in Mallory Square. There, you can enjoy a mojito while watching dancers move to the sounds of a live salsa band.

Eventually, though, everyone migrates toward the waterfront. Seagulls fly by and pelicans dive and swim while the sky changes from blue to purple, red and orange. Boats of all shapes and sizes cruise past the docks. Locals and tourists alike sing, take pictures and toast the end of the day. Anyone who knows me will tell you that I’m not a crier. But the beauty of this sunset and the unity and joy of those watching brought me to tears.

Yeah, now the sun goes slidin’ across the water;
Sailboats, they go searchin’ for the breeze.
Salt air it ain’t thin,
It can stick right to your skin,
And make you feel fine.
It makes you feel fine.
Cause I want to be there,
I want to go back down and lie beside the sea there.
With a tin cup for a chalice
Fill it up with good red wine,
And I’m-a chewin’ on a honeysuckle vine.
~Jimmy Buffett, “Tin Cup Chalice”

Key West Pirate Museum

For my long weekend in Key West, my chosen cheesy tourist activity was the Pirate Soul Museum. Between my love of Buffett music & pirate movies, my interest in Caribbean history and my general (admittedly romanticized) fascination with pirates and sailors, I just had to check it out. The story is that the museum, located at 524 Front Street, started as a way to display Entrepreneur Pat Croce’s collection of pirate artifacts. Unfortunately, they don’t allow you to take pictures of these artifacts. I was a little disappointed about that; but I do understand that camera flashes can damage artifacts, and that this is a fairly common restriction in museums.

You're not allowed to take pictures in the Pirate Museum. But they never said the gift shop was off limits...

Lack of photo-ops aside, I enjoyed the Pirate Museum. There are displays of the weapons, medical equipment and navigational tools that were used by pirates. The museum also houses one of the two remaining Jolly Roger pirate flags and the only known surviving pirate treasure chest. There are interactive exhibits and a number of Blackbeard- centric displays. Everything is displayed with signs explaining what the artifacts are, mixed in with general anecdotes and blurbs about pirate life both on and offshore. Having recently read James Michener’s Caribbean, I found the descriptions of life in Port Royal particularly fascinating.

The charm bracelet I've been adding to since Christmas 2008. I wear it almost every day. The pirate charm resides happily between the pelican from a previous vacation to Florida and the graduation hat my husband got me when I received my MBA

Post-museum, it was time for shopping and lunch. I have a silver charm bracelet that I add to when I travel. I still hadn’t located the right charm from Key West. I was looking for a margarita glass. I never found one that I liked. But every time I looked, I was drawn to the skull & crossbones charms. On our way to lunch, I found a silver one at a little shop on Duval. The owner was even nice enough to weld it to my bracelet immediately.

View of Blue Heaven's courtyard from upstairs, indoor seating

I’m not sure really sure how we found Blue Heaven, located at 729 Thomas Street. Honestly, we probably just wandered off Duval Street until we found a promising restaurant. Like many Key West restaurants, it is located behind a tall garden wall in a courtyard with limited indoor seating. In the past, Blue Heaven has been home to a billiard hall, bordello, dance hall and gambling arena. Though it is currently a restaurant and bar, Blue Heaven pays tribute to its shady past. For instance, several of the tables have been decoupaged with cutouts revolving around jazz musicians and pinup girls. They also have live jazz in the evenings and a signature cocktail that is, of course, blue.

Decoupaged tabletop at Blue Heaven

Blue Heaven’s menu is similar to many of the other Floribbean-styled menus in Key West. This means it’s heavy on seafood, jerk chicken, black beans and fruits and vegetables. They’re open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. We were there around 2:00pm; and they were steady but not overwhelmingly busy. While looking over the meal selections, I ordered the Blue Heaven martini (it’s 5:00 somewhere, right?) which had blue curacao, vodka and fruity mixers. While it was a pretty blue color, the drink itself wasn’t all that great. It was too heavy on the curacao, making it more bitter than sweet or tart.

Luncheon Tortilla with Jerk Chicken and Avocado

For lunch, Jared ordered the Jerk Chicken Plate while I chose the Luncheon Tortilla. His meal consisted of boneless jerk chicken breasts with black beans, rice and cornbread. My meal had the same jerk chicken (or tofu, if I had chosen that). It was served on a tortilla and topped it with black beans, rice, melted cheese, avocado and cilantro salsa. Jared found his meal bland. I thoroughly enjoyed mine. It was not as spicy or as salty as some jerk, but it was well-seasoned and went especially well with the tortilla and toppings. I also loved how cozy the restaurant was. We wound up conversing and laughing with other patrons while waiting for our meals, and lingering over our drinks after we had eaten. To me, this is the mark of a really good vacation meal – good food and drink, punctuated by fun conversation.

Blue Heaven dining room, where we sat after lunch and chatted with fellow travelers and Key West locals

The famous Key West Beach Sign shows the distance in miles from the beach to a number of other locations including New Orleans, London and Cancun

Several things about Ft. Zach’s beach surprised me. I had expected the beach to be crowded. It was relatively deserted, making for a peaceful atmosphere. I had also expected nothing but soft sand and warm water. While there is gorgeous white sand, the beach at Ft. Zach is also rocky. Since it was mid-February, the water was cooler than I’d expected. Fortunately, years of swimming in Lake Erie have made me used to swimming in cooler water and wading on rocks. And I absolutely could not resist how clear and sparkly the water looked. I splashed around, watched the seagulls and pelicans, and took lots of pictures before settling into that beloved beach pastime – reading & sunbathing.

Sometime in the afternoon, I began to get hungry. I checked out the selections at Ft. Zach’s concession stand, and decided against what were likely to be mediocre burgers & hot dogs. This turned out to be a good decision since it started to drizzle as we were leaving the beach, and because we stumbled onto the best fish sandwich I have ever eaten.

B.O.’s Fish Wagon, located at 801 Caroline Street, doesn’t look that great from the outside. It is constructed out of a random selection of planks, plywood, sheets of metal, and even old garage doors; and is decorated with fishing nets and license plates and graffiti left behind by past patrons. Honestly, the place looks like it could fall down at any second. Being the type of person who prefers holes-in-the-wall and little local joints to trendy restaurants and big, pristine chains, B.O.’s is my type of place. Upon arriving, you’re greeted by a sign that essentially says “if you’re in a hurry, prissy or whiny, this is not the place for you”. The girl taking orders sits on top of the cashier’s counter and answers questions about the menu. Behind her, you can see your food being prepared. Upon placing your order, you sit down at a picnic table or on a barstool or at an old cable spool and wait for your food to be delivered.

There is a lot of love for Ohio, especially Lake Erie & Put-in-Bay, in Key West

Jared & I both ordered the fried fish sandwich with fries. At the order-taker’s suggestion, we shared a “small” order of fries. This turned out to be more than enough for both of us. The fresh-cut fries were good, especially when seasoned with salt and malt vinegar, but nothing special. It was the sandwich that was the star of this meal. The snapper was battered and fried, and served on cuban bread with cheese, onion, lettuce, tomato and Key West Lime sauce. It was perfectly-fried and crispy without being greasy. One of my fried-food pet peeves is when there’s more batter than there is meat. This was not the case with B.O.’s sandwich. While it was coated in a generous amount of batter, there was even more fish, giving it the perfect fish-to-batter ratio. The sauce complimented the other toppings very well. Overall, the combination of soft bread, crispy fish, fresh lettuce and creamy-tangy sauce made for a perfect fish sandwich. I hear that their sandwiches are best when washed down with a beer. Not being a beer drinker, I had the Key Limeade which was also delightfully refreshing.

The one problem with B.O.’s is that its construction makes it a bit risky on a rainy day. We lucked into a table that was covered. Some of the others were not. This was fortunate because it rained harder as the afternoon went on, derailing my plan to return to the beach. Lazing around moved to our room at The Duval Inn, where we read, napped, and generally enjoyed being away from the snow and cold of Ohio and the stresses of work.

No sunset. But I did get to watch the boats on the water

When we decided to go to Key West, one of the things I wanted to do the most was go to the Sunset Celebration at Mallory Square. Growing up on Lake Erie, I have seen more than my share of beautiful sunsets over the water. There is something magical about seeing all those reds, oranges and purples reflected onto the water. Being a night owl, I also like the sunset because it signifies the start of my favorite time of day. I knew that because of the clouds and rain, Sunday wouldn’t be a good sunset night. But we went to Mallory Square anyway. Sure enough, the sky stayed a steely blue that eventually faded to gray then to black. But that didn’t put a damper on anyone’s spirits. Several vendors, street performers, and tourists braved the drizzle to come out and bid the day goodbye.

Mallory Square in the rain

Once the sun set, it was time for dinner. The Upper Crust was not my first choice of restaurant. Pizza places never are. But if Jared didn’t care about things like eating a balanced diet and gaining 50 pounds, he would eat pizza for breakfast, lunch and dinner every day of his life. We had passed The Upper Crust, located at 611 Duval Street, several times while walking around town. We decided to give them a try that night.

Upper Crust Pizzeria, Key West

Upper Crust is a casual restaurant with hardwood floors, stainless steel tables and TVs showing the Olympics. We decided to split a pepperoni pizza with bacon on one half for him and jalapenos on the other half for me. This was another beer-only place, so we both got pop to go with our food. The Upper Crust is yet another place that you wouldn’t want to eat if you were in a hurry. I think that by this time, I’d decided that if you wanted food quickly in Key West, your best bet was Denny’s or Wendy’s. Being in no hurry, we settled in to watch the employees toss our pizza crust, top it and bake it.

Eventually, we were presented with large pizza. From looking at the pizza, it’s obvious that Upper Crust pays some attention to the quality and freshness of their ingredients. They use full strips of bacon instead of the crumbles that so many places use, and freshly-sliced jalapenos. The sauce had a strong tomato and garlic taste but wasn’t sweet at all. The crust was on the thin side, but airy and perfectly cooked. All-in-all, it was a good pizza. It wasn’t the best I ever had. But it certainly wasn’t the worst (that dubious honor goes to Gino’s soggy deep-dish in Chicago).

Post-pizza, we passed another relaxing Key West night exploring the nightlife, making random friends and enjoying life and one anothers’ company.

At night, Duval Street is a mellow, beachy version of Bourbon Street

Our trip down U.S. 1 ended at the Key West airport where we dropped off the rental car. Here’s my second Key West travel tip: stay on the west side of the island. The east side has a small airport, several hotels and a waterfront view, but not much else. The west side is where most of the restaurants, shops, bars and attractions are located. Now, Key West isn’t that big (2 miles by 4 miles). So you could taxi, bike or walk across it. But it’s much nicer to be close to the action. That being said, I don’t imagine that actually staying on Duval Street is very nice either.  My recommendation is to stay a block or so off Duval.

The Duval Inn has rooms available in the main house, the yellow cottage, and the bungalow

When traveling, I prefer to avoid large chain hotels. I adore bed & breakfasts and am a sucker for cheesy old-school motels. If you’re like me, I recommend staying at one of Key West’s many B&B’s or inns. I found The Duval Inn on Tripadvisor, where it gets rave reviews for its location, price and service. This B&B is located on Angela Street, within a block of Duval Street. It offers a range of room options, from basic rooms to suites. We opted for a cozy and very affordable poolside bungalow room. The only downside was that it had a shared bathroom (which was really not a big deal at all). And for $129 a night, the room was a steal.

One of my favorite things about B&Bs is that they’re a lot more social than hotels. The Duval Inn’s amenities enhance the social aspect. There is a complimentary happy hour every night with good cocktails, music and company. Breakfast, which consisted of bagels and pastries, hard-boiled eggs, fruit, yogurt, coffee and juice, is set up in the B&B’s registration area. Guests often choose to eat their food in the courtyard, sharing travel tips while they enjoy their meals.

After enjoying a nap, a margarita and some laughs at happy hour, Jared and I headed out in search of El Siboney. This Cuban restaurant was recommended to us by one of Jared’s friends whose family owns a house in Key West. The taxi driver who took us to the B&B also had good things to say about it. This brings me to a couple more travel tips – Taxi drivers are a great source of information and dining recommendations. Also, you’ll find some of the best and most affordable meals off of Duval Street.

My sangria & bistec de palomilla from El Siboney (told you the portions were huge!)

El Siboney is located at 900 Catherine Street, in a residential area. It is a local favorite that we probably wouldn’t have found if people hadn’t told us to seek it out. From the outside, the restaurant is unassuming. Once inside, you are greeted by the aroma of roasted meat and garlic, and the sight of happy people enjoying huge portions of good Cuban food. El Siboney has a fairly small selection of menu items; but they do them all very well. Jared ordered the Puerco Asado (roasted pork). I ordered Bistec de Palomilla (grilled steak). Both meals were served with Cuban bread, black beans, saffron rice and fried plantains. The meal was amazing. The meat was tender, well-seasoned and covered with a generous portion of grilled onions. The Cuban bread was soft and sweet, the beans had a rich meaty flavor, and I don’t think I could ever say anything bad about fried plantains.

After such a filling meal, we definitely needed to go for a walk. Fortunately, Key West lends itself very well to walking. Jared and I wandered through El Siboney’s neighborhood, down Duval Street and to the waterfront at Mallory Square. We spent several hours people-watching, wandering in and out of shops and bars, and just talking and relaxing before heading to the Margaritaville Cafe for live music and a late-night snack.

I’ve been to several of the Margaritaville restaurants and have always liked them. They’re full of Jimmy Buffett-related items and serve decent pub grub with a Floribbean twist. This was my favorite Margaritaville experience though. The Key West Margaritaville is a lot smaller than the others, giving it more of a local bar feel. We lucked into a seat front and center of the band and ordered a plate of  Volcano Nachos and a couple drinks. The nachos, while huge, are nothing special. They are covered in cheese sauce, melted cheese and all of the standard nacho toppings (guacamole, sour cream, green onion, jalapenos, etc). But then again, I don’t think you go to Margaritaville for incredible food. You go because you are a crazy fan who enjoys the atmosphere and the experience.

When we arrived, we hadn’t intended to spend the whole night at the Cafe. But the drinks were good, The Key West Band did an excellent job of covering Jimmy’s songs, and we were surrounded by fans of all ages singing along. So we passed a pleasant Saturday night  “wastin’ away again” with a soldier who was about to be deployed to Afghanistan, a bachelorette party, businesspeople on vacation, a guy who lives on his boat and several old hippies and beach-bum types. This is what I love so much about the Parrothead community – you meet people of all ages and backgrounds and instantly become friends with them, if only for a night.

This is one of the many pictures I took as our car sped along U.S. 1 to Key West

Here’s my first Key West travel tip: Don’t fly to Key West. Seriously. Flights to Key West are stupidly expensive; and the drive down U.S. 1 onto the island is one of the best parts of the trip. You don’t want to miss it.

Friday afternoon, we left work and got on a plane. By midnight, we were in Miami. This was a great time to arrive because everything – the airport, the car rental shop, the highways – was empty. We avoided Miami traffic by driving about 40 minutes south to Florida City, where we stayed the first night. The motel, a Days Inn, wasn’t in the greatest area. There wasn’t much to do, nor did the neighborhood strike me as the safest. But we were just looking for a bed for the night, so I didn’t care. The motel was old, but clean with a super friendly staff. And, they have free WiFi.

Normally, I don’t care a whole lot about the internet during weekend getaways. It’s handy if I want to look something up, but not necessary. But Saturday morning was an important day in the life of every Parrothead – Jimmy Buffett tickets went on sale at 10:00am! His concerts sell out in 10 minutes; so it was important that I have a good internet connection. After frantically refreshing Ticketmaster.com, I scored 4 tickets to his Noblesville, Indiana show by 10:04am. It was a great start to an island vacation.

After that was taken care of, we hopped into our rented Ford Focus and began our little road trip. I had heard and read about U.S. 1 in the Florida Keys. But it’s one of those things you have to see to believe. The road runs along the eastern side of Florida, and, once you get into the Keys, it’s completely surrounded by water. In many places, it’s simply a two-lane bridge over nothing but water. You can see the Gulf of Mexico on one side and the Atlantic Ocean on the other. The only things separating you from the water are some small walls and the road underneath your tires. From this highway, the views of the glittering blue waters, vibrant green plants and colorful islands are breathtaking.

Even when it’s not passing over the water, U.S. 1 offers plenty to see. It’s lined with hotels, marinas, stores and random little shops. U.S. 1′s homes and businesses seem to have embraced their tacky tourist reputation and run with it. They’re painted an array of colors and decorated with flamingos, fish, nautical paraphernalia and tiki masks. In Key Largo, one of these businesses caught our eye as a perfect place to stop for lunch.

Outdoor dining area at Marley's

Marley’s Bayside Grille is officially located at 99530 Overseas Highway in Key Largo. But if you’re not careful, you’ll miss it, since it’s actually below the road and must be accessed via a ramp off U.S. 1. While it has nice indoor seating, it’s true highlight is the outdoor bar and dining area. In addition to traditional tables, the deck railing along the water is lined with barstools. Jared and I took two of these, ordered Diet Cokes, and settled in to watch the boats and the birds while we enjoyed our first meal in the Keys.

The view from our barstools at Marley's

The menu at Marley’s is pretty standard for Keys restaurants. It consists of a selection of salads, burgers and seafood with Caribbean, Cuban and Mexican influences. I opted for mahi-mahi tacos. Two large flour tortillas were filled with shredded red cabbage, pico de gallo and mahi that had been seasoned with salt and pepper. They were served with a lemon wedge, which I promptly squeezed over my fish, and sour cream. This was one of those meals that was incredible because it was so simple. It relied on good, fresh ingredients rather than intricate flavors. Jared had a fish Cuban, which was similar to the traditional sandwich with melted cheese and dill pickles. But instead of pork or ham, it had the same grilled mahi that was in my tacos. It was served with rice and black beans, which were good enough, but far from the best we had on the trip. The sandwich was interesting; but I preferred the tacos.

Marley's Bar

On our way out, we were lucky enough to run into the owners. They were friendly, asking us how we liked the food, talking about Ohio, and introducing us to their two Shelties. They were thrilled that we were so pleased with our experience. It turns out that Marley’s has partnered with its neighboring boat rental company, PonTunes. I could picture myself spending a day out on a boat, then stopping at Marley’s for a cold margarita and some fresh seafood. But that would have to wait for another trip. Key West was calling.

So we got back on the road. During this part of the drive, I saw one of the more interesting parts of U.S. 1. Before U.S. 1 existed, Key West was accessible via the Overseas Railroad. While it was partially destroyed in a 1935 hurricane, portions of the Overseas Railroad bridges can still be seen from U.S. 1 today. The old bridges are a popular spot for fishermen, bikers and pelicans. Watching the birds, the people, and the increasingly watery lands go by kept me occupied for the rest of the beautiful drive into Key West.

Pelicans along U.S.1. I have a charm bracelet that I add to every time I travel. When I went to Ft. Myers, Sarasota & the Everglades in March of 2009, I added a pelican charm to the bracelet.

Sunset over Lake Erie in Vermilion, Ohio (4th of July weekend, 2009)

Travel has always been an important part of my life. Since I was a baby, my parents took my sister and I on regular vacations and weekend getaways. Before you get any ideas, no I did not grow up with rich parents. We were a small town, middle-class family. My parents just made travel a priority. I had friends who lived in huge houses with tons of toys and gadgets inside and shiny new cars in their driveways. My family lived in a small house, drove cars until they died and really didn’t accumulate lots of “stuff”. But we traveled all over the U.S., with a few jaunts out of the country as we got older. To this day, all four of us still jump at any chance to travel. I am truly thankful for this because I have been able to see and do so many amazing things. I also think it has made me a more well-rounded and open-minded person than I would otherwise be.

My drying rack after a long, fun night in the kitchen

A few weeks ago, I read a blog post called Stuff Junkie or Experience Junkie? It really stuck with me. Essentially, Audrey Scott says that some people like to accumulate things while others like to accumulate experiences. Neither lifestyle choice is right or wrong, nor is the choice 100% since you often can’t have one without some of the other. She then asks the reader what he or she is. It made me think about my lifestyle. While I admit to having excessive collections of books and kitchen gadgets, I consider myself an experience junkie. I like to do things rather than have them. My love of cooking ties into this quite nicely. I enjoy the experiences of preparing and enjoying good food. I accumulate kitchen things because they contribute to that experience.

Only YOU can prevent scurvy! (U.S. 1, Florida Keys)

While I enjoy little daily experiences such as cooking, watching the sunset, having a good laugh with my husband, or taking an evening walk with my dog, my favorite experience is travel. I love going to new places, learning new pieces of history, seeing the sights, trying new food and making new friends. I’m one of those crazy people who doesn’t even mind long rides on crowded airplanes, especially not since they tend to take me to some of the most exciting and interesting places I’ve been: Cuernavaca, Mexico City, Dublin, Washington D.C., New Orleans, and, most recently, Key West. Jared and I have started a tradition of going on a short trip to someplace warm just when we can’t stand the winter any longer. This year, that place was Key West. We always return from our winter trip happy and relaxed with lots of fun stories and experiences to share. In the next few days (or weeks, depending on how much spare time I have), I plan to write about my winter getaway to Key West – from the beautiful drive along U.S. 1 to the cheesy  tourist traps to the sunset in Mallory Square to (of course) all of the fun little out of the way restaurants where we dined.

And since I am a huge Jimmy Buffett Fan, & Key West is where Jimmy got his start, I’m going to use lines from his songs as blog titles. Fins up!